Retinoids & What Form Is Best For Your Skin
When it comes to skincare, few ingredients have the scientific backing, reputation, and results that retinoids do. Whether you’re struggling with acne, pigmentation, or premature ageing or simply looking to better your skin’s texture retinoids can be your best friend. But understanding how and when to use them is key, especially when we consider their impact both topically and systemically.
As a nutritionist and soon to be dermal therapist, I take a holistic approach to skin health. This means I don’t just look at what’s going on your skin, I also look at what’s going in your body. So here’s all things you need to know about retinoids, and how to use them for lasting results.
What Are Retinoids?
Retinoids are a family of compounds derived from vitamin A, a fat-soluble nutrient.
There are three main generations of retinoids:
First-generation: These are natural forms of Vitamin A or their active metabolites, including retinol, retinaldehyde, tretinoin, and isotretinoin.
Second-generation: Acitretin, this is a synthetic retinoid.
Third-generation: Synthetic forms like Adapalene, Tazarotene and Bexarotene
What Vitamin A does internally
Vitamin A isn’t just a topical hero, it’s also an essential nutrient for maintaining healthy vision, supporting the immune system, fertility and fetal development and of course skin particularly the epithelial tissues (which line the skin and mucous membranes).
There are two main types of vitamin A in the diet:
Retinols: Found in animal sources like liver, eggs, and full-fat dairy.
Carotenoids: Found in plant-based foods like sweet potatoes, carrots, and leafy greens. The body needs to convert carotenoids into retinol before it can be used as active vitamin A.
Unlike synthetic supplements, whole food sources of vitamin A don’t lead to toxicity because the body tightly regulates conversion and absorption.
Topical Use: How Retinoids Transform Your Skin
On a skin level retinoids work by interacting with specific retinoid receptors within the skin located in the epidermis and dermis. Because skin cells contain retinoid receptors, topical retinoids can interact directly with the cell membrane and even influence DNA transcription in the nucleus. This gives them significant power to transform skin texture and function.
Physiological effects of the skin include:
Increased basal cell turnover (smoother, fresher skin)
Reduced melanin production (helps with pigmentation)
Stimulated collagen production (firmer skin and fewer wrinkles)
Normalisation of excessive keratinisation (key for acne)
Improved epidermal structure and cell organisation
Reduced sebaceous gland activity (less oil, fewer breakouts)
Reduced ceramide production (can cause dryness beneficial for oily skin types but may need barrier support in dry/sensitive types)
Different types of retinoids
Understanding which form of retinoids to use and when to use them is what will help you to achieve results without compromising your skin barrier. When using over-the-counter retinol, it must undergo conversion within the skin to become active. Retinol first converts to retinaldehyde (retinal) and then to retinoic acid, the form that directly binds to retinoid receptors and drives the changes spoken about before. Prescription-strength retinoids, like tretinoin, are already in the active form, which can be quite harsh on the skin.
Retinyl Palmitate / Retinyl Acetate
Conversion: Retinyl Palmitate → Retinol → Retinal → Retinoic Acid
Strength: Very Mild
Results: These are the gentlest (and weakest) forms of vitamin A, often used in basic cosmeceuticals. They act more as antioxidants than active resurfacing agents, and they may not always make it through all three conversion steps to become retinoic acid.
Retinol
Conversion: Retinol → Retinal → Retinoic Acid
Strength: Mild
Results: gentle on skin, slower to show results. Is common in cosmeceutical formulas.
Retinal (Retinaldehyde)
Conversion: Retinal → Retinoic Acid
Strength: Moderate
Results: 11x faster-acting than retinol with no added irritation, less stable therefore harder to formulate, but there a few reputable brands out there that use retinal (read the ingredients list).
Tretinoin
Conversion: Already in active retinoic acid form
Strength: Strong
Results: prescription-only, can cause irritation and extreme dryness on the skin, must be used with caution. Usually it is not necessary to use something so strong for long-term.
Isotretinoin (Roaccutane)
Route: Oral medication
Strength: Very Strong
Results: used for severe acne, systemic impact (whole body), causes excessive drying of the skin, can cause liver and kidney damage. Must be prescribed by a dermatologist/ GP.
Application tips for topical retinoids (retinol/ retinal):
Start slowly: 1–2 nights per week and increase gradually. Also be aware of the different % available on the market.
After cleansing in the evening, apply retinal to the face and neck. Allow to absorb then follow with a moisturiser.
Always wear SPF as retinoids can increase sun sensitivity.
Combining Topical and Internal Approaches
Topical application treats the surface, but systemic nutrition builds the foundation. When used together:
You get faster, more sustainable results.
You reduce the risk of side effects by supporting skin from within.
You treat both symptoms and root causes (like inflammation, hormonal imbalance, or micronutrient deficiencies).
Common Myths
“Retinol thins your skin.”
False. It may cause temporary peeling, but long-term use thickens the dermis and improves structure.
“Can I use retinol if im pregnant”
Short answer is no, but you can use Bakuchiol. Bakuchiol is a compound abundant in the seeds and leaves of the plant Psoralea corylifolia making it a natural option. It does not have the same clinically proven benefits but it does offer the same functions as retinol.
“Can I use retinoids forever?”
Yes! Many people use them long-term to maintain results. You may cycle your dosage or strength depending on your skin’s needs, seasons, or life stage.
I often see clients relying heavily on topical products while ignoring the foundational role of diet. Without the internal support of nutrients like vitamin A, zinc, and essential fatty acids, skin may struggle to repair and regenerate optimally.
Always consult with a healthcare professional before starting a supplement or skincare regimen. You can book a FREE 15-minute consultation today. My approach focuses on understanding your unique skin type, diet, lifestyle, and underlying health conditions to create a tailored plan that addresses the root causes of your acne.
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